![]() It doesnt change because the engine has a different maker. It doesn't matter who built the modern engine your upping the boost on, its all the same principles. Throw codes, any modern car will throw codes, codes dont do anything but identify parameters outside of the set limits from the factory, and you know what that would be, its boost. Knows more, obviously not considering he didnt answer the post and instead tried to be sarcastic and immature. Without considering all the elements of the foundation, the building is bound to fail. Without all of those components raising engine boost is like building a 5 story building on a foundation meant for a single story. He knows much more than you based on the question you asked. To say its meaningless is to negate the last 50 years of automotive tuning.ĭon't insult him like that. Its basic graduation when trying to increase power over stock. Limitations of stock motors for decades have been found by gradually and steadily increasing the the psi and figuring out where the peak stress point is at. Its a simple question that obviously you have neither the knowledge nor inclination to answer in an educated manner, so please refrain from picking an argument and post in the off topic section if you want to continue in that fashion. To people that are clueless about what the engine can safely attain with out any other mods and/or have no desire to, maybe. Here are some products you should look into So make it simple for yourself and either get a Piggyback tune or a flash! You have a warranty, If codes are thrown and you don't know how to cope with them your warranty will be void. We don't drive EVO's or STI's where we can just get a manual boost controller Our cars are sensitive and throw codes if we did things like that. You can't just up the boost, without monitoring fuel, timing, engine knock etc. The manufacturers of both have done research about safely tuning the engine. Glad I could help shed some light if you didnt already know.ĭon't try to experiment on your car. Which, as we all know from the first time we started tuning turbo engines - is a ways away from the set stock standards. All it takes is to not care about emissions, keeping the performance on par with every other motor produced on the assembly line, and accept a tad more risk with increased internal pressure and heat. Its just about understood as overall fact that stock engines with boost built in are significantly detuned from their max overall capability for homogenization/safety/emissions standards. Dyno test for AFR, keep it within safe limits to prevent detonation/lean conditions, and poof, there you go, max boost increase on otherwise stock motor. The boost pressure that you see on your dash is gauge pressure so when your dash says 0 PSI your map sensor more or less measures 14.7 PSI.Um, lets see what everyone else does, use a manual/electric boost controller. This means the OEM 3 Bar MAP sensor can measure up to 43.51 PSI absolute. ![]() This means a 3 Bar MAP sensor will read 1.01325 Bar ~ 1 atmosphere ~ 14.7 PSI absolute while a boost sensor will read 0. A MAP sensor measures absolute pressure whereas most boost sensors measures gauge pressure relative to atmospheric pressure. A common misconception is that the MAP sensor is the same as a boost sensor. ![]() Comparing both sensors allows the ECU to determine pressure loss through the throttle body which helps increase efficiency.Īlright, let’s get nerdy. Having a sensor in the intake manifold allows the ECU to know the pressure right before it enters the cylinder and allows for fine tuning of ignition timing and other ECU outputs. This makes tuning and reaching the turbocharger target pressure much easier. The MAP sensor in the charge pipe allows the ECU to more accurately measure turbocharger pressure as it exits the FMIC before any losses occur through the throttle body. ![]()
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